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Author Topic: Propane Regulator: Auto Changeover  (Read 2677 times)
stryker
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« on: August 14, 2012, 09:01:56 PM »

I have a 2008 Fleetwood Santa Fe Popup onto which I would like to add an auto changeover propane regulator.  The problem I have is that the trailer has an external high-pressure propane stove and all the interior gas appliances are low pressure.  The current regulator configuration has the propane connected via a single inlet line going into a Marshall high pressure regulator.  On the outlet side of the regulator is a pipe tee with one end sending propane to the high pressure stove and the other end going into what appears to be another high pressure regulator (I could be wrong about this, but I don't think so) and the outlet from that regulator goes into a low pressure regulator and the outlet from the low pressure feeds the low pressure appliances.  I am having great difficulty finding just a high pressure regulator with two inlets with an auto changeover feature.  Found a Fisher regulator that does this but at a cost of $140.  I noticed that a Cavagna regulator, model 70-A-190-0016, appears to be made in two pieces - the high pressure regulator and a low pressure regulator.  If they are indeed threaded together then I should be able to unscrew them and then can just use the high pressure regulator for my purposes.  Cost for the Cavagna (also marketed under the name Mr. Heater) is about $45.  I can't find this model anywhere locally so that I could eyeball the connection more closely.  They might be stamped together, but I really doubt it.  Anyone know if the Cavagna can be unscrewed separating the high and low pressure regulators?   
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rjniles
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« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2012, 03:51:56 AM »

Even if you could take the Cavagna regulator apart, do you know what the pressure of the high pressure stage provides? The Coleman/Fleetwood outside high pressure stoves require 15-16 PSI for proper operation.
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Bob & Sandra

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zuley
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« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2012, 08:20:46 AM »

I questioned my dealer earlier this spring about doing the same on my FW Arcadia.  Because of the two different pressures they told me it could not be done.  I understand both tanks deplete at the same level with the present setup.   I've switched to 30 pound tanks. If anyone come up with a method to do so I would be greatly interested.
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mstrbill
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« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2012, 08:49:44 AM »

one solution:

http://www.popupexplorer.com/forum/index.php?topic=82604.0


Quote
I understand both tanks deplete at the same level with the present setup

Why, one tank should be shut off, and the other run until empty. Then open the valve on the full tank. Close the valve on the empty tank and take it to be re-filled.


Here's how Fleetwood used to do it. Note that the HP line runs off of one tank only.

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2538783640046203164JJkmCj

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Bill

the Camping Poms: Joy, Tori & Bella the Yorkie
2008 Fleetwood Niagara Highwall -  PopUp Blue  SUV Black - 2004 Chevy Suburban LT
96 Coleman Bayport -  PopUp Blue Pickup Blue - 98 F150SC - lots of great memories, but got tired of fighting the sagging cracking ABS roof
Tenttrailer
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« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2012, 09:43:42 AM »

The only time I'm glad I have a auto switch over is for the furance in the middle of the night and I don't have to go and open and close valves

The old valves were two pices, maybe you can find one. Or check with an LP supplier

But for my use, I would use the standard auto shich over and leave the lines connected as-is. Alway select  the right tank to be the first to be us, but with both valves open you would have the high presure on the left.  since the right tank would be supplying the water heater, fridge and furance it would be going empty much faster then the left tank, which would only be supplying the stove.   What I would do when the right tank went empty, I refill the tank and would switch the tanks so the full tank was on the left. 

« Last Edit: August 16, 2012, 12:00:31 PM by gemini » Logged

Trailmanor pulling a Toyota Sienna

Art & Joyce - - Columbus, OH via MI, PA, NY, IN

Nights camped too many to count - - - Camped 31/50 states & Canada.
stryker
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« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2012, 01:54:41 PM »

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!  I determined today that because of having both high and low pressure stoves I cannot feed both of my propane tanks into one high pressure auto changeover regulator that would then feed both pressure sides.  While it can be done technically it is not a seemless operation.  When the high pressure auto changeover detects a low pressure situation in the primary tank and switches over to the reserve tank it does so but then the reserve tank operates at a lower pressure (why they do this I don't know, I don't know whether this is done on purpose or just an idiosynchracy of the auto changeover design).  My low pressure gas appliances will still work, but the reduced pressure state will most likely cause my outdoor high pressure stove not to function.  The specs I've been able to find indicates that the reserve tank will most likely be operating at a pressure of 1/2 to 2/3 of the pressure that the primary tank would have run at.  Bottom line, seperate high pressure regulators.  One that feeds the outdoor stove and an auto changeover regulator that feeds the low pressure appliances, which is where most of the action is anyway.        
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stryker
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« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2012, 04:55:28 AM »

I purchased a Cavagna 70-A-190-0016 regulator and it works just fine.  I did try to separate the high pressure regulator from the low pressure regulator (it looked like they were merely screwed together) as I only really needed the high pressure side.  Can't be done.  They maybe screwed together, but there are four large crimp indentations into the metal where they are joined together, locking them, making unscrewing impossible. 
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Tenttrailer
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« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2012, 06:58:22 PM »

If I correct the high pressure side will only run off you left tank how you installed it?  I would away move the selector to the right tank per your drawing, and open vales for both tanks. 

With both valves open you would have the high presure on the left off the T and the other line off the T would be ready to switch on, when switch over takes place. 

Since the right tank would be supplying the water heater, fridge and furance it would be going empty much faster then the left tank, which would only be supplying the stove.   

What I would do when the right tank went empty and the indicator turns red. I would refill the tank and put the full tank on the left, then move the tanks that was on the left to right.  This way the fullest will aways be on the left. 
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Trailmanor pulling a Toyota Sienna

Art & Joyce - - Columbus, OH via MI, PA, NY, IN

Nights camped too many to count - - - Camped 31/50 states & Canada.
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